Sangas, bagels and everything that falls under the category of bread-filled-with-deliciousness have well and truly had their moment in Melbourne last year. No shade, we love it, and with plenty of newcomers and sibling venues on the cards for 2024, we’re tipping that moment ain’t over yet. And the latest? JollyGood Diner.
JollyGood has been in the game since the start. Many may remember the days of Chef Raphael Exton-Pery popping up around town over three years ago, unknowingly building a cult following that holds strong today. Some might recall when JollyGood Sandwiches nabbed a semi-permanent spot in collaboration Near & Far, which is now affectionately known as JollyGood Junior which operates as a more casual affair compared to the newly opened diner.
“The goal was always to have our own space,” Exton-Pery said.
“Something that championed a dining experience.”
Taking inspiration from stunning spaces like New Orleans’ Josephine Estelle and Exton-Pery’s heydeys in fine diners like Gimet, the aesthetic of the joint is what you might expect when you hear the word diner.
The space leans retro with the warm accents of vintage red and 70s typography. All the details—entirely designed by Exton-Pery and his partner—amount to an overall elevated experience without compromising on being inviting.
Red brick exteriors, polished concrete floors, and Japanese oak timber bench tops are all part of the charm. Whether you’re venturing in to dine alone or bringing along the whole crew, there are plentiful seating options at your disposal—nab a booth if you’re lucky.
Perch at the bar if you’re flying solo and up for a yarn with the friendly bartenders, take a seat at the large 12-seater communal table, or people-watch on Johnston Street at the window,
On the food front, we were most excited with the introduction of breakfast. Naturally, sandwiches are the leading item with two options, but it’s hello to a hefty three buttermilk pancake stack and a range of hot-out-the-oven daily pastries.
From midday, chow down on what we know and love JollyGood for—sangas. French dip, roast beef, ala New-York deli, just to name a few. For the burgers, our personal favourite has to be the GoodBurger. We won’t try to explain it, see for yourself.
An underrated stand out? The key lime pie. “It just felt nostalgic”, said Exton-Pery. Made in-house by an American baker who pours love and tradition into every batch, the key lime pie will be a permanent fixture on the menu. Find hot pies and a variety of sweet pastries on a daily rotation.
Check out JollyGood Diner at 27 Johnston Street. For the latest scoop of menu updates, opening hours and more, keep an eye on their Instagram. A little birdy told us there's plans to trade 'till 1am soon.
For more movements in Melbourne's food and bev scene, head this way.
Image credit: Hayden Dib