Eating has become a bit of a luxury. There's a serious Sriracha shortage, extortionate veg prices, and empty supermarket shelves—but we all have to eat, so why not enjoy it? For me, that's not caviar bumps and Krug but rather crusty sourdough loaves, stinky cheese, and a natty wine under $30—all from Sydney's stellar small businesses. And I can't be the only one.
I chatted to Big Sam Young of the newly opened S'more, Chat Thai's Palisa Anderson, Totti's mastermind Mike Eggert, and fromage fiend Penny Lawson behind Penny's Cheese Shop in pursuit of knowing where they love to shop for their can't-live-without goods.
After all, Sydney has no shortage of specialty food stores. And thanks to these four food-loving legends, I now know where to find "the best mortadella in Australia", Sydney's "OG cheese shop", and a secretive butter dealing business—and you do, too.
Here are the best specialty food stores in Sydney, according to people who not only love food but have dedicated their lives to it.
Sam Young
S'More Owner and Chef
Big Sam Young is one of the most exciting chefs in Australia at the moment. The ex-Merivale chef has clocked up time at Mr Wong, Totti’s, and Lotus 2.0. After that, he was wooing Sydneysiders with his next-level private dining experience—the #BSYExperience—with things like caviar and lobster pasta. And now, along with partner Grace Chen (AKA Super Banana), he's opened his very own bricks-and-mortar venue, S'more, in the well-heeled suburb of Castlecrag. Impressive stuff.
Read on for Big Sam Young's top food spots.
Penny's Cheese Shop
Potts Point
After moving down the road to a bigger shopfront (read: more cheese), Penny's continues the good deed of selling sensational cheeses, from international slabs to handmade farmhouse cheeses, to fromage-loving Sydneysiders. One of whom is Big Sam Young.
“It’s the OG cheese shop," Sam tells me. “Every Christmas, before I launched my own business, we used to have Christmas every year with my friends, all the chefs. We’d ask Penny to do a cheese platter for us, and it was always sensational.
“She has so many interesting cheeses that you can’t just buy at Harris Farm, for example. And I also love the fact that you can support a local cheese shop."
Pino’s Dolce Vita Fine Foods
Kogarah
"No one makes better mortadella than Pino,” says Young.
Founded back in the late 70s, Pino's Dolce Vita Fine Foods has been wheelin' and dealin' fine deli cuts for generations. It was opened by Pino Tomini Foresti, who was born into the seventh generation of a butchery family in Terranova, Calabria. He came to Australia when he was 16, opened up a shop in Kogarah and has since become the go-to butcher and small goods guy for many Sydney chefs.
The family-owned and -operated business is now run by Pino, his wife Pia, and their children Fabiano, Carla, and Marco. Head in and you can pick up everything from bistecca florentina, lamb racks, pork belly, whole roast porchetta, and sausages to pantry staples like pasta, oils, and vinegars.
But for Young, it's all about the cured meats. “They make the best small goods in Australia—the best mortadella in Australia, the best salami in Australia."
Ming’s Seafood Market
Eastwood
Ming's is an unassuming seafood market in Eastwood. And, full disclosure, I'd never heard of it. But it's Young's go-to seafood spot, so I'm on board.
"It’s hectic, right," says Young. "It’s like Golden Century in Eastwood." Yep, sold.
Eastwood is populated with Chinese and Korean markets, shops, and eateries. So, it makes sense that one of the top spots for seafood, particularly seafood heavily used in Asian cuisine, is tucked away in this vibrant suburb.
Ming's is an incredibly well-priced, always-busy live seafood market that stocks some of the freshest fish around. But, for Young, the real drawcard is its variety. “You can get snow crab, live prawns, stuff you sometimes don’t even see in the Sydney Fish Market,” he says.
Annandale Cellars
Annandale
Rounding out Young's picks is neighbourhood bottle-o Annandale Cellars. But this is far from your local BWS. Independently owned by winemaker (and wine lover) Chris Loth, Annandale Cellars stocks a whopping 3500 products, from minimal-intervention vinos to rare sakes. But, really, it's about the wine here.
Young reckons it's "easily one of the best [wine shops] in Sydney" with the "best wine selection in Australia". “The pro tip is that there’s a little wine room inside," he says. "Go inside and there’s some of the rarest, most delicious wine on the planet in there.”
We're talking $2000 Bordeaux reds, top-tier 2018 German rieslings, bottles from orange wine guru Gravner, and high-end champagnes. For those, like me, who are looking for something a little less extravagant, Annandale Cellars stocks plenty of affordable drops, as well as Loth's own label CLO.
It also hosts regular wine-tasting nights, wine fairs, wine dinners, and educational wine masterclasses (like we said, it's really about the wine here).
Palisa Anderson
Chat Thai Owner
Owner of Chat Thai and driving force behind organic farm Boon Luck Farm in the Northern Rivers, Palisa Anderson is all about supporting small, local business. So much so that she gave me a whopping list of ten places that she loves to frequent, including go-to Asian butcher Emperor's Garden Meat Market, bottle shops P&V and Winona, Taste Organic grocer, and Mosman coffee roastery The Source. Oh, and the four below.
Read on for Palisa Anderson's top food spots.
Emilio's Butcher
Rozelle
Sydney, it's time to ditch the supermarket steaks and go back to your local butcher. Bonus points if it's an ethical and sustainable one like Emilio's Butcher. Run by Will Heath and Milko Marinozzi, Emilio's sources whole animals directly from local farmers and producers that follow chemical-free and regenerative farming practices.
The butcher is built on an ethos of minimising waste and valuing "the life that has been taken to put food on our table". So, while you'll find your regular rump cuts and pork chops, you'll also find juicy pork back and biodynamic beef patties, lamb leg and belly skewers, and salsiccia di fegato—sausages made with pork liver, heart, chilli, garlic, and orange zest.
“I absolutely adore these guys. They’re the best," says Anderson. "They're both alumni of Feather & Bone [and] what they’re doing is really artisanal and small scale. They make the best sausages, without any preservatives. And Milko’s Italian, so he makes specialty cotechino."
Chinese Ginsengs & Herbs Co
Chinatown
"Chinese Ginsengs & Herbs Co in Chinatown [is] a very important shop for me. It’s very old and been there since I was a kid," says Anderson. "My mum used to take me there and teach me all about how to source TCM (Traditional Chinese Medicine) that Asians actually use for cooking. They have some really good foodstuffs in there as well."
Anderson's mum, the late Amy Chanta, founded the OG Chat Thai on Darlinghurst's Liverpool Street back in 1989 and irrevocably helped define Sydney's Thai food identity. Anderson continues her mother's legacy, and it's hard not to be touched when she talks about her connection to this Chinatown mainstay.
According to Anderson, Chinese Ginsengs & Herbs Co is run by a Vietnamese-Chinese family. "They’re a whole bunch of siblings, I think there’s about six of them or something."
It was the first of its kind in Chinatown and remains in its pokey Ultimo Road shopfront. Every inch of the shop is used here, with shelves upon shelves stacked high with every sort of TCM imaginable.
"They’re not on the internet [and] they’ve got no social media," says Anderson. So, if you're looking for it, head to 75 Ultimo Road.
Ciccone & Sons
Redfern, Glebe and Penrith
Since opening its OG Redfern ice cream parlour back in 2015, Ciccone & Sons has been making traditional Italian gelato and sorbetto for dessert-loving Sydneysiders. You won't come across any candy-spiked, OTT creations here. Instead, you'll find excellent scoops made in-house by co-owner Mark Megahey (he’s been doing this for 25 years, so you know it’s the good stuff).
“It’s not showy," says Anderson. "I like its Pozzetti [cabinet] and the way they set it up so you don’t actually see all those colours, which always draws people in. These guys are all about quality and not being too fancy.”
In terms of gelato, expect some beloved classics like stracciatella, cinnamon, and honeycomb. But why not venture out a bit? Ciccone’s black sesame and matcha gelatos ought to pique your curiosity. And all of the gelato is also made with jersey cow milk, meaning you get that extra creamy indulgence. To sweeten the deal, they also offer sundaes, coffee, affogatos, and negronis—dreamy.
Pioik Bakery
Pyrmont
Beyond The Star casino, it's not often that you hear about the sleepy village of Pyrmont, but there's a reason to get up early and visit. Introducing Pioik Bakery. Located at the Jones Street Wharf end of Harris Street, the Egyptian bakery is run by husband-and-wife duo Shady and Rose Wasef. Here, everything is baked on-site, from your daily staples like a loaf of bread to tomato, basil and buffalo mozzarella pizza, gluten-free orange cake, and chocolate tarts.
“The sourdough is the best. I love [Shady's] specialty bread of the day, too—my kids are addicted to the pumpkin bread," says Anderson. “And I love his panettone. It’s so good. I actually had a slice of panettone and a black coffee for breakfast.”
Honourable Mention: Gympie Farm Cheese And Butter
Gympie
“Now this is very specific—Gympie Butter. They do direct sales, and it’s like a drug transaction how it happens," Anderson tells me. Obviously, I'm intrigued.
Gympie Farm is a small micro-dairy in the hinterland of the Sunshine Coast. So, not in Sydney—but for butter "drug" deals I let it slide.
“[Owner] Camille Mortaud is a very eclectic French guy. He only owns Jersey cows and he milks them by hand, churns it, and goes to the market—and if you’re crazy enough to chase his butter up he’ll send it to you. What you do is you write down your order on a piece of paper, you go and buy multiple express postage bags, and you put it in an envelope and you send it off to him—and hope to god he’ll send you some butter back."
Excuse me while I run up to the post office...
Mike Eggert
Merivale Executive Chef — Totti's And Bar Totti's
Responsible for Totti's famous puffy woodfired bread, Mike Eggert is an executive chef at hospitality juggernaut Merivale. He's worked with the likes of Kylie Kwong, Martin Benn, Daniel Puskas, and James Parry and was behind Pinbone and a bunch of fun pop-ups before opening Bondi's super-popular Italian restaurant. Safe to say the man knows food.
Read on for Mike Eggert's top food spots.
Zanetti 5 Star Gourmet Deli Delicatessen
Haberfield
A chef behind Sydney's most popular Italian restaurant visiting Haberfield just makes sense. The neighbourhood is one of Sydney's "Little Italys" and is well known as one of the best areas to get your hands on Italian goods.
"There are lots of great Italian delis and lots of awesome shops in Haberfield, but Zantti's is my fave," says Eggert.
Zanetti 5 Star Gourmet Deli Delicatessen's name isn't lying—it really is one of the best delis in town. The family-owned store has been around since the late 50s and is now run by Angelo Zanetti. Here, you'll find everything from pasta, prosciutto, stuffed peppers, and passata to wild honeycomb, Italian lollies, and panettone.
"The real trick is knowing they will make you a deli sandwich with anything from the cabinet—this is pure gold lunch material," says Eggert. "If it's not the best sandwich you've ever had then it's your fault for not adding enough delicious things."
Gourmet Life
Edgecliff and Potts Point
Gourmet Life has a reputation as the boujee caviar, truffle, and cheese delicatessen every adult needs to visit at least once. "It's for the finer things in life or that special dinner party," says Eggert. And with $100 foie gras, Italian white truffles, and tons of caviar tins, yes it's pretty lavish. "It's a really fun place to drop some coin and impress your mates."
But it also stocks pantry staples (the high-end kind), so you don't have to fork out a fortune. Although no guarantees you won't. From excellent tinned fish, gooey cheese, antipasto goods, Spanish chips, and fancy salts to coffee, fine French chocolates, and artisanal biscuits, the selection here certainly lives up to the name.
Redfern Convenience Store
Redfern
Taking the convenience store game to epic heights is Redfern Convenience Store. And no, this is not your average corner store that you run to for a bottle of Coke and a stick of chewing gum (although it does have those).
"They stock the best range of American sweets, chips, and candy," says Eggert. "If you love a snack or two pay them a visit. They are total legends."
It's owned by the super-passionate Hazem Sedda (honestly, just read this) and has to be the greatest convenience store in Sydney. Australia? Maybe. It's clocked up over 30k Instagram followers and has firmly placed itself as a Redfern go-to. Head in and you'll find iconic US confectionaries like Twinkies, Pop Tarts, and Lucky Charms cereal; international hot sauces and spreads; a wild selection of chips; and even Redfern Convenience Store merch.
Sam's MFC Supermarket
Rosebery
Tucked away on Gardeners Road in Rosebery is Sam's MFC Supermarket. The neighbourhood market doesn't have a website or social media accounts, so you'll have to trust Eggert on this one. "They have an amazing selection of Lebanese and Persian products," he says.
The store is basically a labyrinth of open barrels of olives, pickles, spices, breads, oils, pickled veg, fruit, sweet treats, oils...the list goes on. If you're looking for hard-to-find Middle Eastern ingredients, chances are Sam's has them.
Penny Lawson
Penny's Cheese Shop Owner
Self-appointed curd nerd Penny Lawson is the brains behind Penny's Cheese Shop—AKA Big Sam Young's fave specialty store. "He’s a good supporter, Sam," she says. In a cute full-circle moment, I tell her it was his first pick. "Oh bless, that makes my heart warm."
She's been in the food biz for over 20 years, five of which she was Executive Officer of the Australian Specialty Cheesemakers' Association. She's a big deal. And Sydney's cheese offering wouldn't be the same without her.
Read on Penny Lawson's top food spots.
Tokyo Mart
Northbridge
In the leafy Lower North Shore suburb of Northbridge, you'll find a shop dedicated to Japanese goods. Fittingly named Tokyo Mart, the store opened in the 70s to cater to the growing Japanese population in Sydney. Today, it's the go-to spot for sochu, Japanese beer, hard-to-find sauces, Japanese ceramics, sake flasks, and so on. Basically, it should be your first port of call for obscure ingredients and cooking utensils.
"You can get wasabi graters, you can get beautiful soy sauces of high quality—all the things you could possibly want," says Lawson. “It’s great. They’ve got a loyalty card—I’ve had mine for years—and they give you some money back. But, really, I love searching through the shelves."
Jarern Chai Grocer
Haymarket
Lawson heads to Jarern Chai Grocer for "tools, for takeaway food, for fruit and veg, and for the yellow beans you need to make the morning glory good and for good chilli”.
The Asian grocer in Haymarket is attached to the popular Boon Cafe and is well regarded as one of the top spots for fresh Asian ingredients. So, you can drop in for brunch and pick up your groceries all in one go. Genius.
“I go here to pick up water convolvulus which has all sorts of different names, one of them being morning glory. It's got beautiful Thai fruit, veg, and herbs," says Lawson. "But [I also get] their prepacked meals like moo ping (pork skewers) and their papaya salad or barbecue chicken just to take home."
Thai Kee IGA Supermarket
Haymarket
“Thai Kee has to get a mention,” Lawson tells me as I enthusiastically nod along. “It’s just nice to have a poke around and see what’s on the shelves.”
Family-owned Thai Kee IGA Supermarket is in Haymarket's Markey City and is your one-stop shop for rice, sauces, oils, prepped frozen meals, chopping boards, bowls...you name it.
“And frozen dumplings—all the type of dumplings you could ever want to have in your freezer,” says Lawson. “I’ve always got to have good fish sauce, too. And everyone swears by the Lao Gan Ma. I’ve got three different ones of those in my fridge.”
I tell her I, ridiculously, have four in my fridge. “Have you got the one with diced chicken in it?" she asks. "I saw it and was like ‘oh! I’m going to get that’. I still haven’t opened it, but at some point, I will get into it.”
Need more food inspo? Check out the best bakeries in Sydney.
Image credit: Jiwon Kim, Pino's Dolce Vita Fine Foods, Courtesy of Palisa Anderson, Ciccone & Sons, Nikki To, Gourmet Life, Jarern Chai Grocer, Courtesy of Penny Lawson