Sydney is home to an eclectic collection of businesses owned and operated by our refugee, asylum seeker, and migrant community—and we believe this makes our city a richer, more exciting place to live. In this new series, together with our friends at Welcome Merchant, we’ll be highlighting some of these awesome businesses and the people behind them.
Ethiopia is a country synonymous with coffee. Even if you haven't seen the much-loved episode of Parts Unknown where Bourdain visits the East African country alongside chef Marcus Samuelsson, chances are you're well acquainted with Ethiopia's typically bright and complex coffee beans. Well, just like the characteristics of its coffee, Ethiopian food is also bright, complex—and really, really delicious.
In Sydney, proper Ethiopian fare isn't super easy to come by—but follow Ethiopian-Australian cooking teacher, coffee roaster and cultural ambassador Tinsae Elsdon and you'll get a taste of this soul-soothing, slow and deeply social style of food.
"I grew up on the outskirts of Addis Ababa before spending a few years working in the Middle East where I met my husband," Tinsae tells us. "We moved to Australia in 2008 and soon after, I began making traditional Ethiopian coffee at markets and events. Some years later I started cooking for events, private dinners, and my own pop-ups."
We were lucky enough to experience Tinsae's cooking at a pop-up lunch at Old Gold Cafe in Chippendale, hosted by Welcome Merchant. We started with shorba, a rich red lentil soup laced with garlic, ginger, and turmeric. Then, doro wat—a classic Ethiopian slow-cooked chicken stew, which is best mopped up with injera, a spongey crepe-like bread made from teff flour.
For dessert, it was tiramisu made fresh with Ethiopian coffee. Then, an Ethiopian coffee ceremony. Tinsae roasted green beans over coals, before grinding and brewing in a clay pot called a djebena. Much like we savour the ritual of picking up our morning latte, this special process is a part of daily life in Ethiopia.
Here, we chat with Tinsae about Ethiopian food, coffee ceremonies, and where she shops for Ethiopian spices in Sydney.
When did you first realise you have a passion for food and cooking? And when did you learn to cook?
My interest in food and cooking started in my teenage years when I would help out my mum and auntie in the kitchen. I never thought of it as a passion or career opportunity, because as a girl in Ethiopia it is just part of growing up. However, once in Australia and observing how celebrated the food and cultures were of people from different backgrounds, I felt the drive to share my own food and culture.
What do you think is most special about Ethiopian food?
In one word—injera! The spongy teff bread is the staple of most Ethiopian cooking. You tear off a piece and use it to grab some wat (Ethiopian curry). The other thing that makes Ethiopian food special is the unique spice and herb blend we call berbere. It all makes for good, hearty soul food.
Do you have a favourite Ethiopian dish that you love to cook and eat?
My favourite dish is probably Ethiopia's simplest. It is called shiro. It is made from roasted chickpea flour, onion, tomato and garlic. It is a common food back home and always hits the spot!
Tell us about the Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony and what makes this such a special experience.
Coffee originated in Ethiopia so it is an integral part of the culture. We have it multiple times a day, and it is always a social occasion. You will call the neighbours over, and always start brewing if visitors pop in. Beans are purchased raw and roasted over hot coals. Then the roasted beans are hand-ground and the coffee is brewed on the coals in a traditional clay pot called a djebena. It is served in small cups called sini, and three rounds are usually consumed in one sitting.
What inspired you to start doing pop-up dinners and cooking classes?
When making coffee at markets and events, people would ask me about Ethiopian food and I saw there was a real interest in Ethiopian food and culture. That inspired me to start doing cooking classes and hosting pop-up dinners. It has been a good way of introducing the cuisine to people, and not having a permanent location allows me to hold dinners in different locations.
For a long time, I had visualised having a secret dinner at home and when I finally decided to do it, it was exactly as I imagined. It was a beautiful experience having people from different walks of life around my table, and sharing my food and culture.
Do you have any plans to open your own restaurant?
This is something I've often thought about. I don't have plans to do so at the moment, but perhaps in the future.
And finally, do you have any favourite Ethiopian restaurants or delis in Sydney that you love to visit? Where do you like to source the produce and spices for your cooking?
There are only a few options in Sydney. There is Jambo Jambo in Glebe, Gursha in Blacktown and if you're ever up in Newcastle there is the excellent Habesha Restaurant. Most of the produce I use is fresh meat and vegetables. I try to buy locally whenever possible. I bring some spices from Ethiopia, and others I get from Ethiopian restaurants like Gursha.
Keen to try one of Tinsae's incredible Ethiopian dinners? Check in on Instagram or the Dinner with Tinsae website here. Tinsae is also available to cater Ethiopian food and coffee for events and private bookings.
To find out more about Welcome Merchant and their upcoming events, jump over here.
Image credit: Dinner With Tinsae, Ruth Elsdon