Perch

If you’d told me there’d be a future where I’d be sitting in Perch, no dumplings in sight, I’d have been perplexed. But in this new era of Perch, there’s plenty to keep bellies full and, dare I say it, you won’t even miss the dumplings. 

The new It-kid? Something Nathan Houpapa (executive chef across the whole of Comensa, including sister restaurants Cafe Hanoi and Ghost Street) is calling wholefood BBQ and if you’re looking for casual dining packed full of goodness and at a reasonable price, this is it. 

Lunch means bowls—Mediterranean and South Asia-inspired—whipped up exactly the way you like it, and at high speed. Only three choices need be made (plant base, rice or flatbread and BBQ topping) which is the perfect level of decision-making when you’ve already used up the majority of your thinking power at the desk (me, always). Base bowls begin at $20. 

I went for the roasted kumara with chaat masala base and brown jasmine rice topped with an eggplant steak rubbed with cumin, coriander and chilli ($24) plus an iced lychee green tea ($6.50) and a side of spiced nuts ($8) to share. Rach got the same base, plus flatbread and lamb loin ($30), with a white spritz aperitif ($15).

Let’s just say, when the bowls arrived there were joyful expletives, especially around the portion sizes (massive) and the textures (poppin'). 

By the time I’d cleaned my bowl, I was pretty damn full but in a show of commitment to the cause I valiantly pushed through. Plus, I was missing my Mediterranean travel days, where Medjool dates are everywhere. Turns out, it was the best decision—their labneh-stuffed Medjool dates rolled in shards of toasted pistachios are on point and I’m betting their baklava and Turkish coffee tiramisu would go down a treat, too. 

As night falls, Perch’s offering morphs into share platters (from $35 depending on your BBQ topping), plus a four-person banquet of slow-roasted seven spice lamb oyster shoulder which comes out at a very reasonable $36.25 per person. And yes, you can order extra flatbread, swiped generously with confit garlic oil (I’m just out here asking the important questions). 

Now, if you do find yourself here in the evening—pre-show or otherwise—it’s highly likely you’ll want to sip on something smooth. Again, Perch delivers, with cocktails that start at $12 (for Perch’s namesake G’n T) and rise to a mere $18 (for a spicy marg), and just as reasonable wine by the glass and beer. 

Booze-free? They’ve got you sorted on that front too with Strangelove, Crimson Badger Ginger Bear and 1907 Sparkling Water, and at lunchtime there’s an inspiring lineup of iced coffees to get amongst, too. 

So whether you're an OG Perch fan or new to this spot altogether, there’s only one thing for it: Come on down and grab yourself a perch (don't pretend you didn't see that one coming).

Words: Alice Rich & Kathryn Steane | Image credit: Anna Kidman. 

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